Colour Me Curious: The Intriguing Science Behind Skin Pigmentation

Clear skin may be ideal for some, but even the Moon has its spots—just like the natural variations in human skin. A study published in 2016 in the Indian Journal of Dermatology revealed that over 80% of urban Indians have uneven complexions, regardless of age or gender, largely due to skin pigmentation.

In today’s appearance-focused world, concerns about skin pigmentation and signs of ageing are top priorities for many. Yet, finding the right skincare to manage pigmentation can feel like searching for a needle in a haystack. Here's a comprehensive guide to understanding pigmentation and ways to possibly prevent it.

Pigmentation is the accumulation of a skin pigment, melanin, in certain areas or patches of the skin. Melanin is a naturally occurring pigment that protects the skin from the sun's ultraviolet (UV) rays. Melanin offers colour to the skin, determining how dark, wheatish or fair one is, and also protects from the sun’s harmful radiation. Its uneven distribution can look patchy, leading to pigmentation. 

Skin pigmentation has been evolving for about 1.6 to 2 million years, making it one of the earliest visible and variable traits in humans.

Variations in pigmentation can occur due to several factors, often resulting in either hyperpigmentation (darkening of the skin) or hypopigmentation (lightening of the skin). The causes of pigmentation changes can be diverse, ranging from genetic factors to environmental and medical conditions.

The leading causes of pigmentation include:

125 genes influence skin tone. Genetics play a key role in predicting the number of melanocytes (melanin-producing cells), the cells that produce melanin. Melanin production, controlled by an interplay of genes and hormones, determines the changes in skin colour with time. People with darker skin tones possess elevated melanin levels than those with lighter skin tones. Moreover, conditions like vitiligo are hereditary.

Sun exposure often causes skin pigmentation. To protect itself from UV rays, the body produces more melanin, which can darken the skin. When exposed to UV light, the following process occurs:

• UV rays create free radicals.
• These free radicals activate cells called melanocytes, which produce the pigment melanin.
• An enzyme called tyrosinase converts an amino acid into melanin, creating red or brown pigments.
• The body increases tyrosinase activity, boosting pigment production.
• As the skin naturally exfoliates, melanin moves to the surface, giving the skin its colour.

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation is frequently caused by inflammatory skin conditions such as severe acne, trauma, or burns. Pregnancy and hormone replacement therapy can induce hyperpigmentation.

Several drugs can also affect skin pigmentation. Antibiotics are one family of medications that can increase melanin production and thus can affect skin colour. When some medications, such as birth control pills, are taken concurrently, skin pigmentation may worsen. Remember to speak with your doctor to find out if the medication affects the colour of your skin.

Skin pigmentation on the face or other body parts can be of different types and affect differently.

• Hyperpigmentation
• Sunspots: These are black spots that appear on sun-exposed parts of the skin as a result of extended UV light exposure.
• Age spots: Ageing disrupts the balance of collagen, elastin fibres, and melanin production in the skin. Combined with years of sun exposure and health changes, this can lead to the development of spots.
• Birthmarks
• Hormonal issues — melasma: Often linked to hormonal changes (especially an increase in oestrogen and progesterone levels), melasma causes dark patches to form on the face. It’s most commonly seen in pregnant women, women on birth control medication or those using hormonal treatments.
• A deficiency in certain nutrients, such as vitamin B12, can cause pigmentation changes, especially darkening of skin over knuckles, knees and elbows.

• Hypopigmentation
• Past skin injuries, ulcers, burns: Damaged skin fails to produce sufficient pigments, leading to whitish patches.
• Psoriasis and eczema: These inflammatory conditions can also alter the functioning of the melanocytes, leading to white areas.
• Albinism: This is a genetic disorder caused by a deficiency of melanin-producing enzymes.
• Depigmentation
• Vitiligo: Depigmentation, caused by vitiligo, is an autoimmune condition that results in the complete loss of pigment; the body's immune system mistakenly attacks its own melanocytes. It is characterised by the appearance of smooth, white patches on the skin.

Skin pigmentation is more than an aesthetic concern. It can be an indicator of an underlying skin condition and skin pigmentation areas can be more vulnerable to sun exposure, resulting in additional discoloration if not sufficiently shielded. This makes preventive measures the best way to mitigate chances of pigmentation, unless genetic, autoimmune or pregnancy-related.

The cosmetic industry is brimming with options to cure pigmentation, amidst which certain doable skincare measures may come in handy to prevent the issue altogether. Both scientific and anecdotal evidence suggest that a regular skin care regimen, the use of broad-spectrum sunscreen and less sun exposure preserve skin health and help in nighttime skin repair and rejuvenation.

Studies also highlight the use of turmeric (its active yellow ingredient, curcumin), serums and food supplements with vitamins A, B, C, and E, anti-oxidants and good fats like jojoba oil, argan oil, etc, which can ensure skin health.

Embracing the spectrum

The right approach to the prevention and reversal of skin pigmentation is understanding the root cause of it. Hormonal issues and skin inflammation need dermatologist-prescribed treatment, a balanced diet and a healthy lifestyle, together with other skincare for pigmentation. Skin is a sensitive organ and is the most abused by environmental factors; thus, it needs your careful consideration, time, and love.

Fluent Health is the first digital health platform in India that provides personalised prescriptions, diagnosis free from bias and prejudices, and private access to licensed medical specialists. With expert assistance, we make sure you are aware of your skin type, health, and demands like those in pigmentation.

The pigment (melanin) producing cells, the melanocytes, control skin pigmentation.

While genetic factors are difficult to stop, skin inflammation, hormonal issues and overexposure can be stopped with skincare and with the help of a dermatologist.

While there are several strategies to lower the risk, hyperpigmentation cannot always be avoided or prevented from becoming more noticeable.

Mitigating the root cause of skin pigmentation, a skincare regimen, a healthy lifestyle, the right diet, and natural remedies like vitamins A, B, C, and E, antioxidants, good fats, etc., and closely following the instructions of a dermatologist can help reduce skin pigmentation.

Foods rich in antioxidants and good fats are best to combat pigmentation.

Yes, certain dermatological procedures like skin lasers, microneedling, topical creams, etc. can remove pigmentation permanently.