A Doctor's Take: Can Collagen Supplements Plump Up Your Skin?

Skin ageing is a normal and natural biological process. You develop lines and wrinkles, and your skin loses its bounce. Collagen supplements claim to slow down the ageing process. Collagen has become a hot topic in the world of health and wellness, plastered across social media feeds and adorning countless product shelves. The India collagen market size is expected to grow from USD 62.59 million in 2023 to USD 90.38 million by 2028, at a CAGR of 7.62% during the forecast period.  

Today, there is no dearth of powders, pills, liquids, and even collagen gummies popping up everywhere, promising to slow down ageing and restore “youthful skin.” But does collagen work to get plump skin? Here’s what a doctor has to say.

Collagen is the most abundant protein in the human body, making up roughly 30% of its total protein content. Think of it as the glue that holds your body together. It’s the connective tissue that provides structure, support, and elasticity to the body’s skin, muscles, bones, tendons and ligaments, and other connective tissues. 

Imagine your skin as a bouncy castle. Collagen provides the strong framework, while elastin acts like the stretchy material, allowing it to bounce back. This powerful duo—collagen (80% of our skin) and elastin—keeps our skin plump and elastic. 

From our 20s onwards, our body's natural collagen production starts to decline by around 1% annually. This decrease is linked to the visible signs of ageing, like wrinkles and sagging skin.

This has fueled interest in collagen for good skin among those seeking to maintain healthier-looking appearance. Ultimately, collagen has been marketed well as the ultimate solution for perfect skin. But taking collagen is a personal choice more than any other.

Dr Jaishree Sharad, Cosmetic Dermatologist, Author and CEO at Skinfiniti, says, “Avoid direct sun exposure as much as possible. Wear a broad-spectrum sunscreen indoors and outdoors. Avoid alcohol, smoking, vaping, Juul, sugar, jaggery, maida, and foods with high glycemic index. All of them will cause quicker collagen degeneration. Sleep early and do whatever helps you cope with stress eg meditate, yoga, zumba, art, music, indulge in any hobby.”   

Here’s how these factors contribute to harming your collagen levels:

1. Sun exposure: UV rays weaken existing collagen and make it harder to produce new ones. 
2. Smoking: This reduces blood flow to the skin, limiting collagen-building materials and releasing free radicals that destroy collagen. 
3. Sugar and refined carbohydrates: Excess sugar attaches to collagen, making it stiff and inflexible. Refined carbs break down into sugar, contributing to the problem.

A number of clinical trials suggest that the effects of collagen on skin may improve overall skin health. One study suggests that oral collagen supplements also increase the skin’s elasticity, hydration, and dermal collagen density.  Other studies have shown that collagen peptides increase skin hydration and density and reduce collagen fragmentation. They suggest that peptides could be used as an ingredient in healthy foods to improve skin health.  

While these studies show promise for collagen supplements, further research and evidence is necessary to understand their effectiveness. Dr Jaishree says, “It is too early to comment on the actual benefits of ingesting collagen for skin.” 

She adds, “There are no scientific studies to support the idea that oral collagen can slow down the process of ageing. Ageing is a process involving the bone, muscle, ligaments, subcutaneous tissue and skin. So just eating collagen will not plump your skin or improve sagging”

Additionally, our bodies mostly absorb collagen supplements in the digestive tract, breaking them down into individual amino acids. These amino acids can be used by the body for various purposes, but it's not guaranteed they'll specifically target the skin.

According to Dr Jaishree, “Injecting collagen skin boosters have a long-term effect of improving your skin laxity, hydration, pore size, fine lines, skin elasticity and suppleness. Newer treatments with polynucleotides and exosomes are also showing promising results when it comes down to improving existing collagen, delaying collaging degradation and stimulating the production of new collagen. Maybe someday, oral collagen will match these, but as of now, it is far-fetched.”

Dr Jaishree recommends the following; it is advisable to consult with your doctor to determine what’s best for your unique skin needs.

• To improve collagen, increase your protein intake. The recommended daily intake is 1 gm/kg body weight. 
• The application of retinoids and peptides also helps to improve collagen. Treatments such as micro-needling radio frequency, fractional lasers, PRP, Glycolic acid peels, and hyaluronic acid skin booster injections help build collagen. 
• Eat bright-coloured fruits and veggies they are rich in antioxidants. 
• Apply a mineral or physical sunscreen with zinc oxide to protect you from the sun and pollution. Both can accelerate the natural process of collagen degradation.  
• A serum with vitamin C, E and ferulic acid is the perfect anti-oxidant combination to protect against UV rays, blue light and pollution. 
• Retinol, green tea, and peptides also help promote natural collagen. 

Well, you could. Dr Jaishree says, “Since there are no reports of any side effects, it isn't harmful, and there are a few studies that support oral collagen; there is no harm in taking oral collagen from a reputed brand.” 

If you do try collagen supplements, understand that results may take time and may not be dramatic. Collagen supplements might hold some promise, but they're not a magic bullet. Discuss them with your doctor and consider a comprehensive approach to healthy skin.  

Medically reviewed by:

Dr Apoorva Raghavan, Dermatologist and Aesthetician